Madamette x Macy’s
The Prerogative Project
Black Women In Fashion:
Work, Play and Legacy
Presented by Madamette, to honor and celebrate Black women who made great contributions to fashion, retail and economic activism.
Women At Work:
Designers and Businesswomen
Eunice Johnson, Mildred Blount, Zelda Wynn Valdes, Ophelia Devore, Ann Lowe, Lois K. Alexander Lane
These powerhouse women understood their prerogative during a time when African Americans faced great social, political and economic adversity. They leveraged their talents to build outstanding careers as well as advocated and created opportunities for the advancement of others in their communities.
Eunice Johnson
Eunice Johnson (1916-2010), born in Selma Alabama, was an African American publisher, businesswoman, activist and philanthropist who broke racial barriers in media, fashion, business and beyond.
In 1958, Eunice Founded Ebony Fashion Fair and Fashion fair Cosmetics. The Ebony Fashion Fair toured 50+ cities across the United States, Canada and the Caribbean.
The event showcased mostly African American models and designers. As well as an array of popular haute couture European brands. In 1973, Eunice created Fashion Fair Cosmetics, due to the lack of makeup lines that suited models of color. The high demand led Fashion Fair Cosmetics to become the largest Black-owned cosmetics lines at the time.
Mildred Blount
Mildred Blount (1907-1974), was an African American milliner, boutique owner and humanitarian, renowned for her innovative hat designs that graced the heads of socialites, political figures and celebrities, during the mid-20th century. She designed hats for the popular film, “Gone With The Wind”, which led her to become the first Black person to become a member of the Motion Pictures Costumers Union.
In addition to her success in fashion, Blount was deeply committed to social causes, using her platform to support civil rights and advocate for the empowerment of Black women.
Zelda Wynn Valdes
Zelda Wynn Valdes (1905-2001), born in Chambersburg, Pennsylvania, was an African American fashion designer, costumer, entrepreneur and humanitarian.
After a decade of building a firm clientele in White Plains, NY, Valdes moved to Harlem and became the first Black designer to open a boutique on Broadway. She serviced Black Hollywood clientele and became famous for her figure fitting dresses. Valdes designs became popular amongst celebrities such as Dorthy Dandridge, Joyce Bryant, Josephine Baker, Eartha Kitt, Ella Fitzgerald, Aretha Franklin and plenty more.
A trailblazer in the industry, she made significant strides in breaking racial barriers and elevating African American fashion to the mainstream. In 1949, Valdes became the president of the National Association of Fashion and Accessory Designers. An organization jointly founded with Mary McLeod Bethune, to help the economic advancement of Black people in the industry.
Chez Zelda on 57th street attracted more elite clients which expanded her business opportunities to the likes of Hugh Hefner. Zelda showcased her exquisite designs at the Playboy club to an integrated audience. She was commissioned by Hefner to design the Playboy bunny costume.
In 1970, Valdes partnered with Arthur Mitchel, choreographer and founder of the Dance Theatre of Harlem. She toured with the company and designed costumes for 80+ ballots and continued working with them until her death at 96 in 2001.
Ophelia DeVore
Ophelia Devore (1921-2014), born in Edgefield, South Carolina, was an African American model, designer, businesswoman and activist. As one of the first African American models, Devore broke barriers in a predominantly white industry. She helped establish the Grace DelMarco Agency, one of the first modeling agencies in America and one of the first agencies that focused on model diversity.
A committed advocate for racial equality, Devore used her platform to challenge societal norms in fashion and beyond. She founded the Ophelia Devore School of Charm, which trained young women and men in poise, etiquette and career development. The school was a stepping stone for greats such as Diahann Carroll, Richard Roundtree, Cicely Tyson and more.
Ann Lowe
Ann Lowe (1898-1981), born in Clayton, Alabama, was an African American fashion designer, raised in a family of dressmakers that had a successful business in Montgomery that attracted wealthy clients in the Jim Crow South. Lowe’s mother and grandmother trained her in sewing, pattern making and design. Lowe soon mastered the craftsmanship and gained her own prominent clients. She became known for her distinctive techniques and luxurious gowns in Alabama, Tampa and then in New York.
Lowe became a highly sought after couturier and was the first African American to become a noted fashion designer. Lowe also became the first African American to open boutiques on Lexington and Madison Avenues in New York City. Her dress shop, Ann Lowe’s Gowns, attracted high society clients. She designed an abundance of dresses for Jacqueline Kennedy, including her coveted wedding gown and reception party dress. Although couture was her specialty, Lowe also sold wholesale to Saks and other luxury boutiques.
Lowe was popularly known for her amazing talent but didn’t receive much of the credit until after she retired in the mid 1970s. Her work is a pivotal part of American fashion and has influenced many designers and fashion houses globally.
Lois K. Alexander Lane
Lois K. Alexander Lane (1916-2007), born in Little Rock, Arkansas, was an African American fashion designer, businesswoman and humanitarian, known for her fashion contributions and community advocacy. She became known for her elegant designs and fashion boutiques in Washington D.C and New York, that garnered the attention of high profile clients.
Beyond her work as a designer, Lane was passionately committed to uplift underserved communities and promote education. She founded the Harlem Institute of Fashion, Black Fashion Museum in Harlem and the National Association of Milliners, Dressmakers and Tailors. Additionally, Lane invested her time as a Planning and Community Officer at the Department of Housing and Urban Development.
Women at Play:
Bold and Playful Glamour
With a determination to break barriers, these dedicated women gave life a sweet kick, turning lemons into lemonade. If bold and playful glamour had a dream team, it would be Eunice Johnson, Mildred Blount, Zelda Wynn Valdes, Ophelia Devore, Lois K. Alexander Lane and Ann Lowe- each one a force of fashion and flair in their own right. From Lois Lane’s sophisticated elegance to Ann Lowe’s refined haute couture, they knew how to make a statement, even when the world wasn’t ready to listen.
I’m Zelda’s dazzling figure flattering dresses added a touch of regal confidence, while Eunice Johnson’s fashion empire made sure Black beauty had a seat at the table. Ophelia’s mix of glamour and activism proved that you could be both fierce and fabulous, and Mildred’s bold creations were the epitome of daring sophistication. Together they turned glamour into a revolutionary act, proving that style can challenge norms and breakdown barriers.
Legacy
These pioneering women left an incredible body of work and blueprint that helped shape the world of fashion and retail as we know it today. Inspiring countless of new designers and businesses to follow and blaze new exciting paths.
Upcoming Installation:
February 7th 2025 - February 26th 2025
The Prerogative Project, Black Women In Fashion: Work, Play, and Legacy for Macy’s Herald Square Black History Month Windows. Curated by Quanasia Graham, Founder and Creative Director of Madamette, in partnership with Macy’s.
Featuring illustrations by Brooklyn based artist, Ashley Buttercup and fashion brands Madamette, House of Aama, BruceGlenn, Kaphill, Oak & Acorn ~ Only For The Rebelles and High Fashion Thrift.
Explore the installation:
Artist
Fashion Brands:
Additional Accessories:
Harlem’s Heaven Hats by Evetta Petty